How to Spot Fake "Custom" Jewellery Before You Buy

Finding out your custom jewellery is actually not custom at all can be heartbreaking. Not to mention the price tag only for something to have been made from off the shelf components. That's why we've written this article to help you discern, before, during, and after, whether or not your piece is truly custom.

 

Before you Pay

Do they invoice you the full amount right away?

A truly custom piece typically requires a deposit to be made for the jeweller/designer to invest hours into your unique design. If they are asking for 100% upfront, you could be ordering a piece from a warehouse.

Did they offer a website where you could build your own design? 

Such a website indicates that these are premade components, that are then assembled. While it is modular, it is not custom. If you know that, and agree on the price, like the design, then it's likely ready and waiting for you. A wedding band is not really something you buy blindly, so in your quest for quotes, if they are charging the same or more than an actual custom piece, you know you're not getting a good deal. There's nothing wrong with a modular piece, provided they are charging a fair price for it.

Are they honest and upfront about where their pieces are made?

Some questions to ask:

• Where is the casting performed?
• Where is the stone setting performed?
• Is the casting and stone setting performed in house, or is it sent to a factory?

Answers that include vague answers or global sourcing partners are a clear indicator the piece is not truly custom. Even a designer who has their pieces made / set by overseas professionals will be open and transparent about that.

Do they say your design is in stock?

If a piece is truly custom and hand made for you, it cannot be "in stock" or ready to ship the next day.

Do you speak directly with the designers or with a salesperson?

Here are some questions to ask to quickly find out where you stand:

• Can I speak directly with the bench jeweller who will be setting my stones?
• If I wanted to adjust my design thickness, can that be done right away or is it a locked template?
• Do you do your own casting on site or do you outsource it?
• Will this design be cast in one piece?

There's no shame in an outsourced casting job, these overseas professionals have been casting for years. Being based overseas, the issue of worker safety comes to mind, as overseas workers don't have the same safety as we do here in Australia.

Does your shop advertise as a designer or a jeweller?

A designer is unfortunately a massive blanket term, and can make it more confusing for you as a customer. A jewellery designer is someone who designs jewellery, this can include from scratch say in CAD, or from premade components. A jeweller is someone who understands metallurgy and who actually works at a jeweller's bench making jewellery. Most mass manufacturers call themselves jewellers or designers, so that doesn't give you a strong indicator either way.

During the Process

Do they offer a video service showing how it was made?

If they are happy to provide pictures of your piece at the bench, weigh the piece at several stages of its creation, or provide a video of the whole process, these are green flags. Authentic custom jewellers, especially local ones, love to show off the process they have spent hundreds of hours refining. Overseas or mass manufactured pieces often hide behind salespeople and vague marketing language. A true local custom is going to be very open and transparent with you, what to expect, how the process will go, and how long it may take.

Do they seek approval from you at every stage, or are you given what they think you're asking for?

When experiencing the care and attention of a true custom design, you have the luxury of making modifications and seeing the progress. Every designer should be allowing their customers to see and sign off on key stages within the design process.

Did you see a design phase? Sketches? 3D renders? Or did the ring just suddenly show up?

I've seen some 'custom' designers who produce sketches, but of their premade components or rings they have already bought in. Seeing a sketch doesn't mean much, but seeing a CAD render or evidence of a true design phase occurring is a green flag. Look for a clear progression, from concept to detailed 3D render (with measurements). From there, it's made into a wax or resin model that you can actually physically try on. If you are after this service, be sure to let your designer know. A truly custom designer will have no issues sharing these phases of the project with you.

Post Process: The Final Piece

Be aware of the following premade components and how they are used to sell "custom" jewellery made from existing components.

Having a ring blank engraved is an excellent way of personalising your piece, so long as you are not paying a custom price tag for something personalised! The main giveaway if your piece was not truly custom will be the use of ring blanks. Ring blanks are typically used in 'custom' jewellery, but what they mean is that it is actually 'modular'.

 

Jewellers take one of these bases, combine it with a setting, and solder them together, set the stone and send the customer on their way. Halo settings, solitaire settings, stock bands, are typical indicators that the piece is modular but not truly custom. If you see a central "stalk" below the stone, that connects to the band, it was likely soldered on after the fact. 

 

Some premade components help jewellers, clasps, earring backs, hinges, pin mechanisms, are often taught for safety and structural integrity purposes. The use of these very important pieces in your truly custom piece is commonplace and recommended.

 

Your jeweller may make certain components by hand, which makes it even harder to tell. However, feel free to ask them about this. If they truly take pride in what they do, they should be more than happy to discuss exactly how your piece was made. Beware of vague answers or salespeople who don't know, a vague answer would heavily indicate the piece is not truly custom.

 

In Conclusion

An informed customer is an empowered one, knowing how your piece was made puts you in control. We believe you should see every stage of the process.

 

Thanks for reading, we'll catch you in the next one! Feel free to get in touch if you had any questions, I'm here for you.