Monocure3D Burn Away Investment Casting Resin

Special safety equipment required to work safely with this material. MSDS / SDS Data available after submitting the form here. If you have any trouble accessing this information, please get in touch. Never allow product to enter drains, be taken into the body, touch your skin or to be inhaled. See SDS for more information on safely working with this product.

 

This is a special 3D printer resin from Monocure3D that literally burns away in an investment flask!

The wax-free formulation allows for a fast print while maintaining incredible accuracy and detail. Seriously, from my experience, your print will come out exactly like your model looks on the computer. (If not, see "How To Achieve The Highest Details" / "Fix Common Issues" troubleshooting tips a few paragraphs down).

Monocure3D's BURNAWAY investment & casting resin is ideal for any model-to-cast situation. Making jewellery, intricate pieces, automotive or machinery parts, art & sculptures, and even hardware and tools. It is easy to work with and being a wax-free resin, capable of 6 hour burnout schedules and no wax cleanup saves you time and produces high quality results faster than ever.

When invested, BURNAWAY burns away in 6 hours and leaves no residue (0.003%). Whether you’re a jewellery maker, a technician, or a passionate hobbyist, this resin is like no other.

BURNAWAY is compatible with gypsum-bonded investments designed for casting 3D-printed resins such as R&R Plasticast, Certus Optima Prestige, and Gold Star ResinCast.

 

More information:

Technical Datasheet is available here

Important for safety: MSDS / SDS Data Available here

As of the 14th of October 2025, this is the latest version. However there might be a newer one on the official Monocure3D website. See Monocure3D's official website for more information on burnout schedules and how-tos and grab the SDS to prepare yourself for the equipment you'll need to get started and stay safe while working with the resin.

 

 

BURNAWAY™ PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Viscosity

200-300cps @ 25°C (Brookfield RVT)

Odour

"Negligible Characteristic" - It smells like plastic. Gloves, protective clothing, eye protection and face protection while working in a well ventilated area are an absolute must! Please see the MSDS for safety info!

Active Solids

100%

Shelf Life

36 months

UV Cure

385nm to 410nm

Particle Size 

< 10um

Cure Speed

Fast with UV LED

Storage

Dark Cool & Dry Place

Wash Up

RESINAWAY® or IPA

Please see the MSDS for safety info!

For optimal results, always vigorously shake the resin before use. Careful not to spill any on yourself or your surroundings. Ensure the printer’s VAT film and LCD screen are spotless and not clouded. Confirm that the build plate is precisely levelled before starting your print job. Consider printing casting sprues in place too.

 

Every printer has its distinct characteristics, and light intensity can differ even among printers of the same make and model. It’s crucial to use a calibration model to accurately fine-tune your printer settings with the resin for the best results.

Properly stored, Monocure3D BURNAWAY has a lifespan of up to 36 months. Always store the resin in its original container in a cool, dark environment, away from direct sunlight. Ensure BURNAWAY is kept above freezing temperatures to maintain its integrity.

For best results, you can clean your printed models in ResinAway. Get ResinAway from Stem and Seed Jewellery Australia. Then, use compressed air for drying. Check the models are dry and are post-cured for 10 minutes. Aim to cast models within three days of their initial printing.  ResinAway smells very strongly of rose geranium. Your prints will smell nice after being washed and post processed, but please be careful to minimise vaporisation and inhalation while working with it as it is very strong.

Please see the MSDS for safety info!

How To Achieve The Highest Details

BURNAWAY resin is versatile and can be printed between 10-micron (0.01mm) and 100-micron (0.1) layer heights. To achieve the best results, 3D models should always be a closed solid.

 

We are here to help!

Please get in touch with us if you need assistance. Local manufacturing means local support. When you buy from us, you are not just buying a product from a faceless company. We have years of 3D printing and technical support experience. Check out our YouTube Channel and subscribe to keep up to date with the latest from the resin 3D printing world! Stem and Seed Jewellery Australia and Monocure3D are here for you!

 

Fix Common Issues

 

My print falls off or doesn't stick to the build plate:

• Are your base layer exposure settings right?
• For MonoCure BURNAWAY the base layers are 8(/?) layers deep and with 30 seconds exposure. You may need more if it looks thin or doesn't stick.
• Are you printing directly on it without supports?
• Printing directly on the build plate can give you thick base layers which distorts the model and may not have enough surface area to grip the plate.
• Are your models rotated on a 45˚ angle?
• If you're printing jewellery, I like to test -45˚ and 45˚ with the auto generated supports to see which one is cleaner. I often have the sprue angled down. 
• Does your printer auto Z-level?
• If not, you ought to calibrate it before every print. Refer to the manual for your specific model 3D printer. It is usually a quick and easy procedure.
• Is your build plate clean?
• Dust and old resin on the build plate can affect the design sticking. I clean my build plate with methylated spirits and paper towels.

Advanced diagnostics for "My print falls off or doesn't stick to the build plate":

• To reduce the suction exerted by the printer in the resin, a slight Z-lift after the first few laters can help. Double check the supports you are using have holes at the base to remove potential pressure irregularities.
• Try printing an exposure or base layer test model.
• Optimise the angle and try to reduce the size any large, flat areas.
• Some recommend to slightly sand the build plate, I have never done this so I am not sure about doing it as I feel like you can damage it.
• You can buy adhesion promoters, these are products that claim to help the build stick to the plate.
• Try using transition layers.

My print sticks to the film and not the build plate:

• Be careful not to stretch, distort, tear or otherwise damage the film as you remove the stuck pieces, it can be expensive and annoying to replace
• Check Z offset and levelling
• Check the film, it should not be cloudy and should be free of any residue
• Check the first few laters are firmly compressed
• Increase exposure of the bottom layers

 

My layers are soft or incomplete:

• Try increasing your exposure, optionally you can confirm this with a calibration model. Small changes make a big difference!
• Double check you're using the right resin for your printer (MSLA vs DSP)
• I've found in cooler temperatures and hotter temperatures (winter vs summer), the exposure settings will need to change. I often need regular exposure in winter.
• If it's cold, do you have a 3D printer heater? They can help even out the temperature in the chamber for the print. Be extremely careful when it's warmer as it can get too hot and warp.

 

My layers are thick, brittle or warped:

• Try decreasing your exposure, optionally you can confirm this with a calibration model. Small changes make a big difference!
• Double check you're using the right resin for your printer (MSLA vs DSP)
• I've found in cooler temperatures and hotter temperatures (winter vs summer), the exposure settings will need to change. I often need less exposure in summer.

 

My supports are too thin or don't stick to the model or otherwise fail to print exact like they looked in the slicer:

• Heavier (pillar style) supports at anchor points can help support the model's weight
• Using evenly distributed supports can help ensure a good result
• Check the rotation of the model (45˚) to help reduce surface suction and improve support contact
• Change the depth of the tip
• Change the thickness of the support
• Inspect your slice to see if there are any floating islands (a white dot that was not preceded by another white dot, if there's suddenly white on your slice, it's likely an unsupported piece which may work and may not, support it to help the print succeed)
• Double check for any cloudiness on the film, I clean my tank at least 5 times before and after printing

What slicer should I use?

• Lychee slicer requires an account, so I have never used it.
• ChituBox records your screen, so I can't recommend it.
• I use ELEGOO SatelLite and have never had an issue with it. The UI is slightly clunky, but it is free, does not require any sign up and ultimately works well, especially if you have an Elegoo 3D printer. It is free, multi platform, allows for custom and automatic support placement, anti-aliasing and integrates with the printers they offer.

What software should I use to make my models?

Ultimately, this is an apples and oranges situation. My advice is to use whichever you are comfortable with, no matter what it is, the software that lets you bring your vision to life is the best option for you.

Inside a computer there are essentially 2 types of modelling, 1) NURBS (Non-Uniform Rational B-Splines) and 2) vertexes, edges and faces. NURBS is commonly seen in CAD software. Blender is vertex, edges and faces based. Essentially, this affects the resolution of your model. If you are using the "vertex, edges and faces" approach, you will need to up the amount of vertices to ensure the detail is captured (especially if you are sculpting). NURBS however, will give you a very high resolution smooth surface by default. Let's take a sphere for example, in Blender, you will create a UV sphere, and have the option to set how many vertical and horizontal points there are, too low and it will look blocky, too high and it can slow down your computer. In NURBS modelling programs, you simply create a sphere and it will be perfectly round.

Some softwares even go above and beyond with a parametric approach. These are the Autodesk ones. You're able to go back to a previous step you took and change the parameters after the fact, it's as if your changes are applied in layers, you can freely change those layers.

 

NURBS style softwares:

• Autodesk Fusion 360 (Free for students and non-commercial use)
• Rhino (3 month free trial), 

 

NURBS and Vertex/Edges/Faces:

• Autodesk Maya (Free for students, otherwise $$$$$)

 

Vertex/Edges/Faces style software:

• Blender (free & open source)
• ZBrush ($$$)
• Nomad Sculpt ($, iPad)

 

Feel free to check any / all of these out, they usually have free trials. If you are struggling, check out Academic Phoenix Plus on YouTube for understanding what a 3D model is and working with Autodesk Maya. The concepts taught there are widely applicable to almost every 3D software. Additionally, check out PJ Chen Design on YouTube for Rhino tutorials. I personally learned from both of these amazing instructors.